Day 4 – From Roman Gladiators to Luke Skywalker’s Homestead

After a wonderful overnight stay in Kairouan, it’s time to continue our journey south. We leave behind the bustling medina, its narrow streets and the locations from Raiders of the Lost Ark. Today, a completely different side of Tunisia awaits us. Our final destination is Matmata, but first we make a stop at a place that actually has nothing to do with Star Wars – and yet absolutely deserves to be part of this journey.

El Djem – Stepping Back 1,800 Years in Time

From Kairouan, we drive towards El Djem. Even from a distance, you can see why we wanted to come here. Rising suddenly above the relatively low buildings of the town is an enormous Roman amphitheatre. And enormous really is the right word.

The Amphitheatre of El Djem was built in the third century and could probably accommodate around 35,000 spectators. This makes it one of the largest Roman amphitheatres in the world. It is also exceptionally well preserved. This isn’t a collection of stones where you need a lot of imagination to picture what once stood here – this is a huge structure that you can actually walk through.

And it is impressive.

We wander through the passageways beneath the stands, climb the different levels and look down over the arena from above. Below ground, you can even explore the chambers where gladiators and wild animals once waited before entering the arena.

What makes El Djem even more special is that it feels much quieter than many of the famous Roman monuments in Europe. It gives you the chance to really experience the place. To stop for a moment, look around and try to imagine tens of thousands of people sitting in these stands almost 1,800 years ago.

El Djem is one of those stops where beforehand you think: that’ll be nice to see while we’re passing through. Then you start walking around and find yourself thinking: how on earth is this still standing here?

But it’s time to move on. Because today, a place we have been looking forward to for a very long time is waiting for us.

On to Matmata

The further south we drive, the more the landscape begins to change. The Tunisia of the coast and the greener regions of the north gradually gives way to a landscape that becomes drier, rougher and more barren with every kilometre.

And somewhere along the way, the feeling begins to change too.

For us as Star Wars fans, we are now entering the part of the country where the line between Tunisia and Tatooine slowly starts to blur.

Our destination is Matmata.

And then we drive into the courtyard of Hotel Sidi Driss.

Sleeping on Tatooine

There are Star Wars filming locations you have to search for. A particular doorway. A wall. A small section of a street that suddenly becomes recognisable when you stand at exactly the right camera angle.

Sidi Driss is different.

This is it.

The traditional underground Berber hotel was used for the interior of the Lars Homestead in Star Wars. This is where Luke Skywalker lived with his Uncle Owen and Aunt Beru. And the fantastic thing is that some of the original set decoration is still here.

You literally walk into a place you have known from the screen for decades.

For two guys who became fascinated by Star Wars all those years ago, and who are now travelling through Tunisia together in search of these locations, it is a very special moment. And tonight, we don’t have to go anywhere else.

We’re sleeping here.

But first, dinner.

We sit down for dinner in what might just be the most extraordinary dining room we have ever eaten in: Luke, Owen and Beru’s dining room.

The same circular room. The same distinctive shapes. The same place that, for millions of Star Wars fans, is forever connected to the beginning of Luke Skywalker’s adventure.

You sit at the table, look around you, and simply recognise it.

And once again, you realise exactly why we started this journey.

Not to look at Star Wars locations from a distance.

But to stand right in the middle of them.

This morning, we woke up in the historic city of Kairouan. This afternoon, we stood inside an almost 1,800-year-old Roman amphitheatre. And tonight, we are eating and sleeping in Luke Skywalker’s home.

Only in Tunisia.