Day 6 – From Djerba to the Real Tatooine

After a memorable overnight stay on Djerba, we leave the island behind. Today, we head inland through southern Tunisia towards Tataouine and Chenini. For Star Wars fans, the name Tataouine alone is enough to spark a healthy dose of excitement. George Lucas was inspired by the name when creating the desert planet Tatooine. But today, we discover that this region has far more to offer than just a famous name.

As we leave Djerba behind, the landscape gradually begins to change. The relatively flat surroundings give way to an increasingly rugged and arid setting. Bare hills, rocky plains and small settlements dominate the view. It feels as though we are slowly entering another world. And to be honest, that is exactly what we have come here to find.

Today’s main focus is on the distinctive buildings Star Wars fans will recognise as the “slave quarters” of Mos Espa. In Episode I – The Phantom Menace, this is where the young Anakin Skywalker grows up with his mother, Shmi. These are the places where Qui-Gon Jinn discovers Anakin’s extraordinary abilities and where the first steps are taken towards a much greater adventure.

In reality, of course, these buildings were never slave quarters. They are ancient ksour—the plural of ksar—built by the Amazigh communities of southern Tunisia. A ksar was a fortified communal granary. Around its central courtyard, there are often dozens of vaulted rooms, sometimes arranged across several storeys. These individual storage chambers are known as ghorfas.

Families used the ghorfas to store grain, olive oil, dates and other valuable supplies. Their thick walls, made from clay and stone, helped protect the contents from the heat, while the compact, fortified construction offered protection from raiders. Narrow stone stairways and protruding footholds provided access to the storage rooms on the upper levels.

The buildings were designed for practical purposes, yet their rounded shapes, weathered walls and organic architecture give them an almost otherworldly appearance. It is therefore easy to understand why George Lucas found exactly the atmosphere and scenery he needed for Tatooine here. Ksar Ouled Soltane is described as a fortified granary containing several storeys of ghorfas.

What makes this day especially fascinating is that the ksour are not lifeless film sets. Some complexes have been carefully restored and remain in surprisingly good condition. Elsewhere, ghorfas are still used as storage spaces, small shops, artists’ studios or even as part of small-scale accommodation.

At the same time, we also encounter places where time has clearly taken its toll. Sections have collapsed, the clay is slowly crumbling away and the structures appear to be gradually merging back into the surrounding landscape.

It is precisely this contrast that makes them so fascinating. One moment, we are walking through a beautifully restored courtyard; the next, we find ourselves surrounded by weathered walls that have almost become ruins. Yet the same distinctive shapes can be recognised everywhere.

For a Star Wars fan, it is impossible to explore these places without picturing scenes from The Phantom Menace. Ksar Hadada, for example, was used for scenes set in the slave quarters of Mos Espa, including the conversation between Qui-Gon and Shmi about Anakin. The location was indeed used as part of the slave quarters in Episode I.

We then continue towards Chenini. This ancient mountain village is spectacularly built against a rocky hillside. Its homes, storage rooms and narrow paths appear to grow directly out of the rock. Part of the old village has been abandoned, but Chenini is certainly not an open-air museum. People still live here, and centuries-old traditions remain part of everyday life.

As we look out across the surrounding landscape, we once again understand why southern Tunisia played such an important role in Star Wars. There was no need to construct an entirely alien landscape here.

It already existed.

Day 6 brings film and reality closer together than ever before. We walk through the childhood world of Anakin Skywalker while simultaneously discovering the true story behind this remarkable architecture. It is precisely this combination that makes the day unforgettable.